Category Archives: Camper Upgrades
New Gallery Pictures Uploaded
Click Here to view new gallery pictures of 2006 Niagara and Backpacking Gear.
Updated Starcraft Meteorite Upgrades
2006 Fleetwood Niagara & Upgrades
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1992 Starcraft Meteorite Upgrades
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Starcraft Meteorite Suspension Upgrades Uploaded
1992 Starcraft Meteorite Page Uploaded
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Trojan T-125 Dual Battery Upgrade
When we first purchased our Niagara, we just transferred the battery and solar system from our old Starcraft. [see link]
Above: Interstate batteries and “toolbox” battery compartment.
Given that we were beginning to camp at times for up to 3 weeks in winter, with the chance of cloudy skies and little or no sun, it became necessary to upgrade our battery bank. The Interstate battery bank had a “useful” capacity of 75 amp hours (50% of total) and a pair of Trojan T-125 batteries would increase our useful capacity to 120 amp hour, which is a 60% increase in capacity.
The Trojan batteries are much larger than what we had and would require a larger battery box. I found this one (above) that is designed specifically for the T-125s.
I added the locks and clasps to keep the honest people honest.
1992 Starcraft Meteorite Electrical System Upgrade
We purchased this camper in 1992. We never added a battery or used the electrical system. In 2003 I decided to upgrade the camper (e.g., remodel it from scratch). So one of the first order of business was to remove the marginal converter and install an converter with a 3-stage battery charger. Also I would add a solar system that would include two group 27 batteries. This would be a quick jump from zero to state of the art in one fell swoop.
Upgrades
- 7-pin Bargman tow vehicle to trailer connector
- CCI 7719 LPG leak detector with LPG shut-off valve
- Replace incandescent light fixtures and add new fixtures using 12 volt fluorescent units
- Progressive Dynamics Intelli-Power 9100 converter
- Progress Dyamics Charge Wizard
- Boost charge
- Normal charge
- Storage charge
- Desulfation mode
- New power distribution center (12 volt and 110 volt)
- 120 watt solar panel
- Mark/15 Solar Charge Controller
- Trimetric 2020 Battery Monitor
- Two Group 27 batteries wired in parallel
- Additional 110 volt outlets
- Vector 700 watt inverter
- Marinco 30 Amp Detachable Park Power RV Conversion Kit
- Install new tail lights with back-up lights integrated
The original converter. I never used it, it had such a bad reputation.
Normally completing all these modifications would have been difficult and time consuming. But since we gutted the trailer, it was easy to do, other than all the time it took to plan the layout.
Electrical Distribution and LPG Detector
Above: wiring 110 volt circuits and installing the converter, inverter, and Charge Wizard.
Testing the components with a digital storage oscilloscope.
Success! 115 AC volts.
The inverted was advertised as a modified sine wave unit. Testing confirms this.
AC and DC distribution box. Lots of available circuits versus the original converter system.
Close up of the electrical outlet for the inverter (top) and the LPG detector (bottom)
Panel with distribution box, inverter outlets, and LPG detector.
Installing the Marinco Detachable RV Shore Power Kit
ThinLite 12 volt Flourescent Light Fixtures
Installing the Backup Lights
Bargman 7-Pin Coversion
Notice the old oddball 8 pin connector on the left bottom of picture. With the new Bargman set-up I was able to simply plug the trailer into the stock receptacle on our tow vehicle and charge the camper’s battery when driving, power the refrigerator on 12 volt and have back-up lights. When we bought a new SUV the trailer was “plug and go.”
Dual Batteries
Installation of the batteries was problematic at first, until I found this toolbox at Lowes which fit the batteries perfectly and even had a lock clasp.
Solar System
Kyocera KC-120 Solar panel.
Charge controller for solar system.
Bogart Engineering Trimetric 2020 Battery Monitor
Starcraft Meteorite Suspension Upgrade
When I decided to remodel the interior of our camper, one large problem loomed – GVWR, or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The camper could not handle any additional weight and any improvement would push it over its GVWR of 1,180 lbs. A little investigation and crawling on my back led to the following discoveries:
- The axle had a capacity of 2,000 lbs.
- Each tire had a max load capacity of 590 lbs
So my limiting factor was the tires. 590 X 2 = 1,180 lbs. So… just put on bigger tires that could handle at least 2,000 lbs. Pretty simple. But the bad news was that a larger tire would not fit into the wheel well. Hmm. So what if I raised the trailer a few inches for more clearance above the axle? That would work. However, the axle was not a leaf-spring type axe, which would be easy to do. The trailer had a torsion axle, which meant no springs. With a leaf-spring one would simply move the spring to the top of the axle, instead of the normal configuration of under the axle.
After some measuring and brain storming, I decided I could unbolt the axle-to-frame mount and insert a large metal plate. But that would entail some cutting and welding of heavy steel, which I was not equipped to do. So I made some measurements, removed the axle assembly and drove down to a local welding shop to see if they could fabricate some plates… “no problemo,” they said.
I would also need to buy larger tires and wheels and new hubs to mount the wheels. Additionally I would now need a step to get into the trailer, longer stabilizer jacks, and a new trailer hitch. So while the welding shop was making the plates I drove to Arrow Trailer Supply in Colton, CA to purchase the rest of the parts.
A couple days later my plates were finished. All I would have to do is bolt each plate to the trainer frame and then bolt the axle to the plate. When I was done, the trailer frame was now 4” higher than before.
Old hub on the ground. New hub on the axle.
Old tire on the left is a 4.80 X 8. The new one is 5.30 X12. Also check out the cool white spoke wheel.
Tightening wheel with a torque wrench.
New stabilizer jack.
We had to install a new double step.
Total cost of the project was under $300.