A pictorial of desert rambling.
Category Archives: Backpack Trip Report
Joshua Tree Two-Day Grand Loop
Joshua Tree Two-Day Grand Loop (May 2013)
Preface
A few weeks ago, my friend Chad sent me an email asking if I wanted to do a weekend desert trip. My first thought was, “does a bear shit in the woods?” I replied in the positive and we selected Saturday – Sunday, May 4th and 5th.
Previously Chad and I had done 3 trips together, and he is a great hiking partner. I suggested a loop in Joshua Tree National Park I have been wanting to do. We ended up doing somewhere between 26 – 30 miles. The mileage is hard to calculate because it was mostly cross-country, requiring and lot of re-routing around obstacles and seemingly countless crossing of washes, which is a lot of up and down walking. The reason I wanted to do this loop is because there is reliable water about 1/2 way.
Not going to share the details of exactly where we hiked. I see many, many people posting on the Internet looking for suggestions for a hike in Joshua Tree — water availability being the limiting factor for most multi-day hikes in the park. Also, since we did not have a GPS, I cannot provide any of those way pointy doohickeys (whatever they are — I see people always asking for them so they can go on a hike). Cross country travel in deserts often means there are not a lot of prominent landmarks to help the lost hiker. But most importantly, a large portion of the areas we hiked had no evidence of man; no footprints, no trash, no cairns.
For this trip I took 4 full size USGS Topographical maps to ensure we did not get lost, and our route took us through most of the entire portion of all maps.
Day 1
We met just after 6:30 am at one of the most remote locations in the park. Within an hour we were working our way up a very difficult boulder-strewn canyon. A lot of class 3 climbing and it wasn’t long before the tips of my fingers were sore from all the climbing. What was really frustrating was most of the gaps between the boulders were filled with catclaw, making travel between boulders impossible. This is the type of hiking/climbing that one does not measure progress in miles per hour, but in hours per mile. A couple pictures of this section are shown below.
It took us a couple hours to get through the top section of the canyon and just about the time I was thinking I was really, really tired of boulders, we topped out.
Once out of the canyon, we would still need to go up and then down several ridge lines working our way to a wash that would lead us to a flat plain. As we picked our way through this gauntlet, Chad decided to do a little exploring of the rock formations (below).
I took a water break while Chad explored. A few minutes later Chad found another formation to explore, and then a third. As he moved towards the third exploration, I was thinking to myself (as I often do in places like this), “are we the first humans who ever walked this exact place?” And then Chad saw one of those mylar party balloons that travel from civilization to wild places. As he went to retrieve this piece of garbage, he found a dwelling on the backside of a large boulder.
It was a miner’s small home. Inside was a cot and a few remnants, most chewed by pack rats over the decades. We did find this Saturday Evening Post magazine dated January 13, 1940 (yes, we left it where we found it).
By now the temperature was probably close to 90, and we needed to move on. We had a long way to go and there would not be a single stitch of shade for the rest of the day. We would have a couple miles of hills to cross over.
Above: working our way out of this hilly area and trying to find an easy path.
Finally we are out of the hills and canyons.
Above: looking back at the area we had just spent 6 hours traversing.
From a distance and on the map, it looked like fairly easy going — but it was rolling terrain and over the top of every rolling ridge was a wash. Some were over 60 feet deep. Tiring and hot work (below).
Just as with the boulders, when we had enough of the wash crossing, we finally reached a flat valley. And for a coupe miles things were relatively flat (above). But that wouldn’t last for long. Soon we were navigating boulder country again, and each set of outcroppings were separated by a wash, more up and down. We soon moved to an area of flat desert and it would be fairly easy going for the next 3 or so miles — good thing, because we were both out of water. Below Chad is leading the way to water.
We tanked up on water, ate dinner, filled our water bottles and hiked for about an hour, where we stopped for our night camp.
Day 2
The weatherman had foretasted cooler temperatures for Sunday, early morning clouds clearing in the afternoon, and a slight breeze. For once, he was correct on all accounts.
The view from bed:
The first section of our hike would be fairly flat for the first couple of miles. Weather was perfect, and we ambled along stopping frequently to take pictures, generally enjoying the scenery.
We would then descent a rugged canyon filled with huge boulders and brush. It had been many years since I had been in this canyon and I told Chad it could only be worse than my last trip, as flash floods just fill up these kinds of canyons with more debris.
As we descended, it was rugged going. Chad does a great job picking routes, so I hung back while he scouted and then moved through the boulder fields. Every route he chose was perfect. The pictures below were taken looking back as we descended.
It was in this boulder field that we saw the only hiker we would see all weekend. A guy who had walked up this canyon, spent the night in the lower section of the boulder field, and who would pass us going down.
Finally we got to a “real” wash. A couple miles of nice hiking and lots of birds to entertain us.
Below:
Once out of the wash, we would hike a mile through this cholla garden. Awful stuff — I have the wounds to prove it. One nasty pod probably stuck 20 or more spines in my leg. Four I couldn’t get out and just cut them off, leaving little nubs — once I got home I removed them.
Anyway, this is our little excellent adventure.
Searching for Palm Trees
This weekend, with our balmy spring weather I decided to go searching for palm trees — or rather palm oases to be exact. And to be more precise, I already knew where they were, since I have hiked the area extensively over the years. I also explored a few side canyons I had not been in before.
The high temperatures were over 100F, which is okay as long as you have plenty of water. When visiting a palm oasis, plan on there being no water available unless you can verify water from a reliable source ahead of time. Palm Trees do not rely on surface water to survive and the water can be dozens of feet below the surface.
In the temperatures I encountered, most people need at least two gallons of water per day, so plan accordingly.
Anyway, it was a fun trip.
Sierra Snow Trip (silly me)
Okay, I am not a big fan of snow. But almost every year I do at least one winter backpacking trip in the snow. It is pretty easy to get to high altitude and snow when you live at the base of Mt San Jacinto and are within an hour’s drive of the San Gorgonio Wilderness. But my favorite place, mountain-wise, is the Southern Sierras. Easy access and less populated with hikers than other parts of the Sierras.
Last week we had a fair amount of snow in the San Jacinto’s at 8,500 feet, so I figured there would be even more snow in the Sierras. Silly me…
A Nostalgic Hike to Carey’s Castle
Last Thursday night I arrived home at the airport just before midnight. At the exit booth to pay my parking fee, I rolled down the window to the sound of grinding noise. The window motor was dead, and the window was stuck in the down position.
A Nostalgia Hike to Carey’s Castle
Last Thursday night I arrived home at the airport just before midnight. At the exit booth to pay my parking fee, I rolled down the window to the sound of grinding noise. The window motor was dead, and the window was stuck in the down position.
First thing Friday morning I took it to the shop. Later in the day the shop called and said it could not be repaired until Saturday. That eliminated any hiking for the weekend. Earlier in the week my friend, Ojas, had contacted me about doing some hiking in the next few weeks. After the bad news about the vehicle repair, Ojas inquired about us going hiking this weekend. Told him I would have to bow out – Joyce was gone for the weekend and I needed to stay at home and retrieve the vehicle when it was ready.
Saturday morning; 9 AM. Shop calls and says the vehicle is ready. Good news indeed – there would be time for a weekend backpacking trip. Since Ojas had probably already made plans, I decided to put a loop together that would include a trip to Carey’s Castle in Joshua Tree National Park. It has been over 30 years since I had visited the castle.
1981 Trip to Carey’s Castle
When I first located Carey’s Castle, I wasn’t looking for it. I had never heard of it.
I was spending some time near a spring in the vicinity observing a herd of Big Horn Sheep. When it was time to move on, I continued on my trip looking for a well, I found on my topographical map. As I trudged up a sandy wash, I came to an ancient road track that veered away from my planned route. Being sure it probably led to an old mine, I followed it for a few miles where it made a sharp turn in front of a small hill. To the left of this turn was Carey’s Castle – I almost missed it. Very little is known about Carey. During my visit I found many, many of Carey’s artifacts inside and around the vicinity. Also found some Native American artifacts. Of course, I left everything in place.
Curious about the house built under a boulder, I drove to the main ranger station and inquired. I was told it was Carey’s Castle, and the NPS discourages people from divulging information as they did not have the resources to protect it. Good enough for me. I have never told anyone how to get there.
This Trip
Just like my trip last year to Chuckawalla Bill’s rock house, I decided to take the same gear I used when I hiked to Carey’s Castle in 1981. The only exception is that I no longer have the sleeping bag, and I used Aqua Mira tablets instead of iodine. Since I have extensively explored the area where the castle is located, for this trip I wanted to put together a two day loop, with the availability of water along my route. A quick look at some maps showed I could do a loop of around 30 miles and find water along the way. Perfect. There were a couple sections along my route I had not hiked before, so that would add some interest
The Route
Many of us who hike in this area are hesitant to share information, especially for sites of historical value. So I have no map to share with you. If you are diligent you could probably create the same trip. There is enough information on the Web to point you to the castle. That ticks me off. A place that was protected for decades by the hiking community has been over-run by the Internet hoodlums.
Here is an interesting quote from a twit who posted information on how to find it,
“Carey’s Castle is not the sort of site that needs to be hidden from the public. It’s not an especially sensitive environmental area (not a bighorn birthing place, for example), not especially dangerous (no crashed WW2 aircraft leaking fuel, for example), and it’s not private property. The hike in is hard enough it should serve well enough to screen out the casual, beer-swilling, fire-starting idiot.”
Really? Well… I think the author might be the idiot. What about all the artifacts that used to be there? I can now confirm that most are gone, probably snagged by souvenir hunters. And what about all the trash I picked up along the popular section of this route? Oh, Mr. Author, your Internet posting helped create this carnage! Luckily most of the rest of the route I hiked had little damage, so I shall not share that either.
Now to the next idiot – I shall not publish his name, because I do not anyone to buy his book and line his pockets with money. He is the same moron who published a hike to Chuckawalla’s rock house. Oh, and he could not find that hike, this hike, or the Desert Skyline trail on his own. He asked local hikers to take him, without revealing that he was going to publish a trail guide. And those folks who were tricked by him, have publicly stated they would not have shown him these hikes had they know he was going to publish them.
If you want to hike to Carey’s, see if you can construct a loop. I find traveling over the same real estate twice (out and back) to be boring. Go do the hike for the hiking opportunities, not some check box on a bucket list.
General Warnings
Usual disclaimer: Be prepared for earthquakes, boulder avalanches, landslides, flash floods, freezing temperatures, triple-digit temperatures, rabid rodents and mammals, poisonous snakes, poisonous insects and spiders, predatory packs of coyotes, man-eating tarantulas, nasty large biting lizards, no marked trails, probably no water, and GPS failures from activities at nearby Twenty-nine Palms Marine base.
Include maneuvering through boulder fields in the canyons to your hike route. You cannot avoid them unless you create a route north of Carey’s Castle, and no one that I know of has posted anything like that on the Web – but that is what I did in 1981.
The bouldering above was a little more difficult than it needed to be, since I was using an external frame pack. Would have been much easier with an internal frame pack.
Carey’s Castle
There is an ammo box with a couple journals dating back to 2005 on the lower shelf. Amazing how many people said it took them 2 or 3 tries to find the place. Lots of artifacts are now missing.
Other Stuff along the Way
Gear
I was glad I brought this pyramid tent; it shed the high winds that blew most of the night.
Hiking staff doubles as tent pole.
The tent is large. Ample space to cook inside (vent tent of course).
Left to right, top to bottom (sort of):
Traditional blue foam pad
Kelty Serac backpack with Mountaineering frame
Western Mountaineering Ultralite
Gaz Globe Trotter Stove kit
(4) Nalgene 1 quart bottles
Food with spoon on top, plastic trowel, toilet paper, Duracell Durabeam flashlight
Chouinard Pyramid Tent
Stuff sack for down jackets
First Aid Kit and Personnel Care items in Zip Lock
Chouinard Expedition Sewing Kit
Compass and Knife on top of Topo Map
Clothing Carried in Pack
Sierra Designs Wind Jacket, REI Down Jacket
Poncho, military wool glove liners, military wool watch cap, polypro underwear
Worn
Ex Officio nylon trousers with built-in brief
Ex Officio long sleeve nylon shirt
Swiss Army Watch
Tracks Hiking Staff
Danner Mountain Light boots
Liner Socks
Wool Socks
Generic hat
Gear Summary
Itemized Gear List
Anza Borrego (Feb 2009)
Butler and Coyote Canyon Loop
Feb 28 – Mar 01 2009
Note & Warning: this trip entails a lot of cross country travel. A good map, compass, and navigation skills are required, especially when traveling between Butler and Box Canyons.
The Plan
This was a 1-½ day, 1 night backpacking trip in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park. The loop is 20 miles. Day one would be around 15 miles, and a return to my vehicle at the trail head at around noon March 1, 2009.
Elevation ranged from 984 feet to 2,809 feet. In addition, I wanted to test several items of lightweight backpacking equipment. Of particular interest was a quilt, instead of using a traditional sleeping bag. The other was a ‘soda can’ alcohol stove.
The trip starts at the trail head taking a trail up to Alcoholic Pass. The trail ends at the pass, and the rest of the trip is cross country and washers in the canyons.
Coyote Mountain separates Clark Valley from Coyote Canyon. To the south of Coyote Canyon is the sleepy village of Borrego Springs. Alcolhlic Pass is the only easy way through Coyote Mountain. In the 1800’s cattlemen would hike through Alcoholic Pass to get to Borrego Springs to drink at the bars, and hence the name Alcoholic Pass.
The picture above is a Google Earth picture of area, and the red line represents the route I hiked. Below is another Google Earth picture of the hike, but I turned it on its axis to provide a representation of the elevation of the hike. There is no water available on the loop, except for Coyote Creek, a perennial stream in Coyote Canyon. The water in this creek is hard to get to at the junction of the Box Canyon wash, due to thick reeds and is usually rather silty. It is best to hike up Coyote Creek, where the water quality improves. To avoid the extra mileage, I carried enough water to complete the hike, which was 3 liters.
Temperatures were in the mid 80’s during the day, and my camp at 2,300 feet got down to the high 40’s.
Flowers in the lower elevations where justing beginning their spring bloom. It will another month before things really bloom in the higher elevations, and it should be a good year for flowers, as there was quite a bit of rain and snow this winter. Joe and I experienced a lot of both in Butler Canyon last December.
Walking the Loop
Starting at 8:00 am, the hike immediately begins with a route up the slope to Alcoholic Pass. It is a good way to get the blood flowing and keep warm. The trail follows a rocky ridge with a quick gain of 600 feet. The Google Earth photos below provide a perspective of the elevation gain.
‘Real’ pictures of the flora and fauna at the start of the trail provide a realistic feel of the hike. Keep in mind that Google Earth is not a live feed of the earth, but archived satellite pictures. This accounts for the differences in color. Spring in the desert is often green, unlike the Google pictures. Also the satellite pictures look straight down at the earth’s surface from space, the the visual representations of terrain are computer generated models.
Above (top to bottom) Cholla cactus, Red Barrel cactus, Ocotillo, Ocotillo bloom, Arizona Lupine.
Alcoholic Pass
The pass connects Coyote Canyon to Clark Valley. It is the only easy way to cross Coyote Mountain. Originally, the Cahuilla Indians who traveled from the canyon to Clark Valley to harvest beans from Mesquite trees in the valley, which was a staple food item, used this trail.
In the 1800’s ranch hands would take the trail to Borrego Springs, which was shorter than traveling south through Clark Valley and around Coyote Mountain. Obviously, their activities in Borrego Springs were reflected in the naming of this trail.
Today Alcoholic Pass is all about the views.
Above: View of Clark Valley from Alcoholic Pass (top) and a cactus garden in Alcoholic Pass (bottom).
Google Earth pictures of Alcoholic Pass.
Clark Valley to Butler Canyon
Descending Alcoholic pass into Clark Valley the hike becomes a leisurely cross-country walk down the western slope heading northeast. Eventually I took a wash down to the floor of Clark Valley and then turned left behind a small ridge which would lead to the mouth of Butler Canyon.
Google Earth view of route to the bottom of Clark Valley Google Earth view of route to Butler canyon on the left of picture.
Some of the wild flowers on this section of the hike:
Desert Dandelion
Chuperosa
Forget-me-nots
Butler Canyon
This section provided the only challenges of the trip. First was navigating the boulder fields at the beginning of the canyon, the second was finding a relatively easy route to the playa above the canyon. Both were of little concern.
Google Earth view of Butler Canyon and the Playa.
The mouth of the canyon requires some boulder hopping, but soon it is easy hiking.
The Playa
Hiking through Butler Canyon, I needed to locate way to climb out and over the side to a plateau that separated Butler and the Box Canyon watershed. The canyon walls are steep with loose rocks and talus. Finally, a possibility was spotted. A small side canyon with a reasonable slope would bring me just north of the playa. I was able to hike diagonally across the left slope of this side canyon, and slowly work my way around a small hill, which overlooked the plateau. It would be an easy walk down the hill to the plateau and the playa.
A playa is a dry lake bed. During the rainy season, they are wet and soggy or even become a small lake. It is uncommon to find a playa in a mountainous area like this one.
Descriptions of above pictures (top to bottom):
(1) This is the side canyon that would lead out of Butler canyon. I did not travel this canyon, but immediately headed up the slope on the left. Gradually, I worked my way up and around the slope to a hill, which overlooked the completed portion of the route and the plateau.
(2) Butler Canyon. Straight below the Ocotillo is the spot where the side canyon intersects Butler. The large open area in the center of the picture is Jackass Flat.
(3) View of the plateau with Clark Valley in the background. I had already passed through that area.
(4) View the playa in the center, with the San Ysidro Mountains in the background. The hike would continue between the two small peaks beyond the playa, into the Coyote Creek watershed and the ridge I would follow which runs parallel to Box Canyon.
Above: route out of Butler Canyon to the top of the hill.
Plateau Plants
Above Box Canyon and Night Camp
After leaving walking through the playa and entering the Coyote Canyon watershed above Box Canyon, one must stay on the ridges above the canyon, until your are close to the mouth of the canyon. There are remnants of an ancient Native American trail, but it is more work to try to find the trail, than just hiking cross-country. As the picture shows, the area is rolling and rocky. However, I made excellent time, and before 3:00PM, I had already hiked around 15 miles. I decided to head away from the ridge of Box Canyon and locate a campsite with a view. About one mile south of the canyon, I found this spot. It would provide me ample time to test a couple pieces of new gear.
Trekking Poles
I have walked for decades using a single hiking staff, which weighs close to a pound. Today trekking poles have become popular, and a couple friends convinced me to try them. Supposedly, they help climb the steepest hills, are useful on descents, and steam crossings. What interested me the most were the multiple uses for setting up a shelter and hiking. I found a pair made from carbon fiber that weighed less than 4 ounces each. I suppose the jury is still out on their usefulness in hiking, but then 40 years of hiking with a single staff is a hard habit to break.
Self-portrait with the trekking poles.
Trekking poles used as tent poles for my poncho.
Camp.
Cola Can Stove Kit
My friend John Oldford, who works at MSX, suggested I try an alcohol stove made from a cat food or cola can. John has a lot of ultralight backpacking experience, as he hiked the entire 2,600+ miles of the Pacific Crest Trail in 2003. Extremely light and they use just about any kind of alcohol, but denatured alcohol works best. This set up will boil 16 ounces of water in less than 7 minutes. A nifty windscreen, called a Caldera Cone helps the efficiency of the can stove.
Above: Stove kit in sack; Stove Kit; Titanium pot/mug, alcohol fuel
bottle, stove, cone, titanium spoon, foil; close up of my Dr. Pepper can stove; Stove is in the cone and the pot slides in; and Tin foil pot cover, to save weight.
Ultralight Sleeping Set-up
I bought a light polycro piece of plastic to use as a groundsheet. Wanted to see how it would hold up, and it did well. Only weighs 1.7 ounce. The sleeping pad is folded into thirds, and it becomes the ‘frame’ and back rest when in my pack. I also used a light quilt for this trip, instead of a sleeping bag. The quilt is open on the bottom to save weight, and the sleeping pad provides insulation where the quilt is open. Last is the bivy to protect from any moisture that gets past the poncho, should it rain or snow. The bivy weighs 7.9 ounces.
Folded pad on the polycro sheet.
The pad is only 30” long, to fit under my torso. I put my Pack under my legs for insulation/padding.
Here the quilt is upside down, to show the construction.
Quilt in sleep mode.
Finished set-up, with the quilt and pad in the bivy.
The Rest of the Gear
These are a pair of Solomon trail running shoes, which weigh 29.4 ounces.
Total weight of pack and gear was just over 6 pounds.
Box Canyon
Last day of trip. I headed down a side canyon into Box Canyon, which drains into Coyote Creek. From there, it was a pleasant walk along the creek, up to Ocotillo Flats and then to my truck. Finished the hike at noon, and then drove to the Salton Sea to get a well-deserved beer!
Google Earth picture of the hike down into Canyon. You can see where I zig-zagged on that flat spot. I was following an old Indian path, and the map does not show the obstacles, which needed to be circled.
Junction of the side canyon and Box Canyon. The top of the picture shows the ridgeline above the canyon.
From junction, looking down Box Canyon.
Looking back after exiting Box Canyon.
Gear List
San Jacinto Loop (2012)
Spines to Pines
Well, this was supposed to be the 4th annual San Jacinto Loop. Craig, Chad and I. As it turned out, we ended up just doing an 18 mile day hike. Weather, like last year, was colder than expected (below freezing before dark). The three of us were in some sort of a funk all day. Around 6 pm we dropped down into a secluded and protected rock formation near Wellman’s Divide and had dinner. A storm was rolling in and as a group we decided to call it a day and hiked back and took the tram back down to Palm Springs. We just weren’t in a groove.
You can see the picture gallery on Craig’s blog, Spines to Pines trip report.
San Jacinto Loop (2011)
3rd Annual Backpackinglight.com San Jacinto Loop: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
In 2009 I posted a trip report on (BPL) of a 60+ mile loop in the San Jacinto Mountains of Southern California (Click Here).
In 2010 there was interest from several members at BPL to do the same trip with me. As it turned out, only Craig Wisner was able to make the trip. (San Jacinto Loop 2010).
Again in 2011 there was more interest in doing the trip on BPL, and three BPL’ers joined me for the trip over Memorial Day Weekend.
As it turned out, lots of people in California hit some strange Memorial Day weather. We were no exception.
We met at the trail head at 5:30 AM. Team consisted of Chad, Stephan, Josh, and me. I really did not know any of them well via BPL, but we really got along well as a team.
I had been watching the weather closely for the past week, daily checking the Palm Springs, Idyllwild, and Tram Station weather reports. It looked like a very hot weekend, but the last two days showed a cooling trend. Weather prediction was perfect for this time of year. Rather cool in the desert, and zero chance of precipitation. This time of year, heat is the biggest challenge.
We started out in perfect weather. Nice temperatures and clear blue skies for 360 degrees. One bad omen; I was tired. I had worked for 24 straight hours on Tuesday and again on Thursday, but felt fine at the start. Day 1 took me 3 hours longer than my usual pace, and my speed was the limiting factor for the team. So it took us 10 hours to hike 11 miles and gain 8,000 feet in elevation. Still not bad for an old fart.
Here is a picture from about 4,800 feet looking at San Gorgonio (11,503′). Notice the blue sky. But below the peak is a thick cloud and it just sat there for a couple hours as I watched it while gain elevation. At the time I mentioned to the team that it looked very strange, because it seemed the windmills were not turning from my vantage point and normally with that kind of a weather front they would be spinning full speed.
Picture at around 6,600 feet. That ridge in the foreground runs from about 4,000 – 4,600 feet. We came up from the back side of the ridge on the right. Pretty much a straight up climb from 600 feet to 4,000 feet. Notice the blue sky. From here we could see the south end of the San Jacinto range, and it was perfectly blue. It is now about 2 PM.
We get to Long Valley around 4 PM. The temperature is nice. We hustled to the Ranger Station as Josh and I are out of water; Chad and Stephan have just a little left. While they are filling up, I go into the Ranger Station to check in. The Rangers are all standing around. When I give them our permit for Little Round Valley, they just shake their heads and said we needed to go home unless we had a Mt Everest tent. A what? They said the winds were going to be above 90 mph all night. “No way,” I replied, “I just checked the weather this morning.”
Well apparently there was a freak storm heading in, and all of Southern California was under a severe weather watch. They told me people had already come down from the peak with stories of bad winds. Geesh! They also said they were expecting 65 mph winds in the lower elevations, but all the campsites were full, even though they were trying to get people to leave. Additionally they were expecting snow sometime before 11 AM the next morning!
So I go outside, and the team is lounging around in the nice warm sun. I relate the story, and they think I am pulling their legs. Then a couple of gusts hit us and the temperature starts to plummet. Another Ranger walks by and I ask him about the weather, and he tells the same story, so now the team believes me. I offer that we could probably stealth camp at a lower elevation and skip the peak since no one really wants to bail, but Chad provides the correct common sense answer; it is too dangerous with a chance of blow-downs.
We decide to take the Tram down, and check the weather in the morning to see if we can then take the tram back up and complete our loop. So off we head down the tram. When we get to the desert floor, the sky above Palm Springs is blue except for a huge Altocumulus floccus (I looked it up on the Internet) formation in the center of the sky. By now the southern San Jacintos are covered by deep dark clouds, but the area around the peak is still clear blue.
So we go to Shakey’s for Pizza before heading to my house.
Left to right: Stephan, Chad, me, and Josh.
We get home around 8 and the weather at the Tram shows 45 mph winds with gusts up to 65mpe. So we all crash for the night.
In the morning the weather calls for 20% chance of precipitation until 4 PM, and then clearing for the rest of the weekend. It is 35F at the Tram, and the high in Idyllwild will be 45F, which is a good indicator of the temperature along the Desert Divide section of the PCT. So we head up. First car up is 8 AM, so we will get started on the trail at around 8:30 AM, which is later than we really want. Hiking goes well, and it is cold and a little windy for the first 3 miles. As we head down to Saddle Junction, the temperatures begins to warm up and we get an occasional gust of wind. Once we get to the Desert Divide it is warm and no wind at all. We do several miles on the east side of the San Jacintos and the weather is perfect. Chad hikes ahead at lightning speed, and then stops to take a nap in the warm sun while he waits for us. We chat for a while and then take off towards Antsel Rock. Then the winds start to blow. A few clouds start to form and the trees are icing up in the wind when the trail crosses over to the west side of the ridge.
Check out the clouds and the ice on the trees.
By the time we get to the back side of Apache Peak, the air is a dark black cloud of arctic air, visibility is about 10 feet, and all the plants and trees are covered in 1 inch of ice. Walking is difficult in the wind. We top out above Apache Spring and welcome the wind break of the Manzanita forest and then later protection of forest as we quickly pace south.
We get to the Spliter Peak Trail Junction and discuss our options, as the weather is getting downright bad. It is 5 PM and the predicted clearing of weather is not happening, it is getting worse. We are prepared for hot temperatures not a cold, windy, winter storm. We decide to hike to Fobes Saddle two miles away, and then make a decision. There are some nice sheltered areas in the saddle, but the saddle can have the worst weather and wind in the range. By the time we get to Fobes it is probably around freezing and getting worse. No one wants to bail, but everyone seems relieved when I push to cancel. Odds are things will get better, but if it gets worse, we will be in a bad position. For the first time ever on a backpacking trip, I had brought my cell phone, as I felt responsible for the group as the organizer. We call my wife and she drives up. After about 3 or 4 miles of hiking we meet her on the road. We can always do the trip another time, and are alive to talk about it 🙂
Well, that is the Good, Bad, and the Ugly.
All in all, it was a great time and we had a lot of fun. But everyone was bummed we bailed, and glad at the same time.
So how windy was it? Well here is a
Speaking of sand, this is what Indian Canyon Drive near I-10 looked like two days after the storm. Road crews removed SEVERAL THOUSAND CUBIC YARDS of sand. This road into Palm Springs was closed for several days as workers hustled to remove the two-days of sand from the storm. Here is a picture from the local news station.
Pictures Below Courtesy of Chad Eagle
Day 1: Early morning start from the Palm Springs Desert Museum parking lot.
Day 1: As predicted we head up into warm weather and blue skies.
Day 1: Early morning view of Palm Springs.
Day 1: Descending the mountain. Top of the mountain looks clear.
Day 1: Looking down as we descend the tram, bad weather is rolling in quickly.
Day 2: We start the hike from the mountain tram station.
Day 2: The day starts out clear, crisp, and cold — around 32 F.
Day 2: Clearing trend — at least the weatherman and our group thinks so.
Day 2: More bad weather rolling in.
Day 2: Weather continues to deteriorate. Soon visibility will be only 10 feet.