Familiar Places, Familiar Gear
I “recreated” a trip I did in 1978. Check out the gear list towards the end of the story to see how heavy our packs really were back when. We were light backpackers way before Jardine invented lightweight backpacking.
Category Archives: Backpack Trip Report
A Nostalgic Hike with Chuckawalla Bill
Familiar Places, Familiar Gear
While cleaning and organizing my gear storage area this year, I was reminiscing about some of the more interesting desert trips I had done with my old backpacking equipment. During the period of 1977-1982 I unsystematically explored most parts of then Joshua Tree National Monument. A couple trips stand out, although the facts about one of those trips were revealed to me about 4 years later.
Thinking about this particular trip, I decided to do it again using the same gear used during a hike in 1978. I also decided to make the trip my annual birthday hike.
Background on the Original Trip
I was exploring a mountainous region hoping to see my first Big Horn Sheep and locate any springs in the area. Now, I am not going to tell you exactly where the area is, but if you are interested, engage in a little research and you can locate it. The special find mentioned earlier was not especially important; an early 20th century curiosity. One concern I have about the find is its documentation by an author who has put together a trail guide of the area I live in. I have heard he has identified this find in one of his trail guide hikes, but I cannot verify that, since I have not read the book. But the book has caused me concern.
I am going to provide neither the name of the trail guide nor the author’s name, because he has singled-handed done more damage to the wild areas I hike in than any other person. How do I know this? Since its publication I have found more people in these isolated areas, more trash, and have run into lost hikers with book in hand. Yes, they had the book, but they did not possess the needed skills, experience, gear or appreciation of the places they were in. Also of concern are reports that this author had asked local hikers to take him on some of the hikes without telling them he was planning to include it in the trail guide he was writing. And I have heard some of these folks feel betrayed and angry about his sneaky request to join them on hikes to places that were not commonly known to the public. Ah, trash the wilderness for a few shekels of gold.
Anyway… about the original trip. It was a four day hike. On day two I located a reliable spring and saw about 12 Big Horn sheep. Adjacent to this area was a longish canyon that showed three possible springs. One would be too difficult to reach without a long circuitous hike and the other two would be fairly easy to locate, but requiring a difficult drop down into the canyon. If both springs were dry, I would have to hike out of the canyon to a nearby town and then hitch-hike back to my car. If I found water, I would be able to loop back up out of the canyon and hike back to my car.
Working my way down into the canyon required a slow, careful decent of a couple thousand feet down a side canyon. No trail. Gingerly working my way down, I was soon on the canyon floor. From here it would be easy walking the entire length of the canyon, except for sections of muscle-tiring soft sand in the wash. Within a couple of hours I was at the bottom of the side canyon that would lead me to the first spring. Winding my way up this short side canyon, I soon found myself standing below an empty rock house, which sat on a small shelf above a wash. I continued on for about 50 yards and found a small pool of water at the bottom of a 10 foot rock pour-over. The spring was somewhere above this. No need to hike to the actual spring, there was plenty of water below it.
It was late afternoon. I decided to spend the night in the rock house. This way I could cook dinner and clean up, then refill my canteens in the morning with a full load of water. The only flat spot in the area to sleep was in the rock house, or in the flat area of the shelf in front of the house. I walked up to the shelf, and then into the rock house. The roof was gone and there were a few pieces of remnant furniture on the hard packed floor. A few small shrubs were growing in the floor of house. Also there was a small fireplace. Looking about, I didn’t give the house much historical significance. I had seen many rock houses (or remnants) throughout Southern California’s deserts. Some had been built by native Americans and many by prospectors, homesteaders, and ranchers.
I laid out my gear and cooked dinner. Afterwards, I went outside the house and sat down to observe my night camp. The canyon was narrow and the house lacked the large vista or sweeping views many desert rock houses provide. Its location had been determined by the close proximity of water, not aesthetics. The tall canyon walls provided early day shade that the open desert does not provide. This would be advantageous during the hotter parts of the year. A reliable water source was another benefit for its location. I supposed that in wet years there was probably lots of game available. Mule deer and Big Horn sheep would provide meat. Quail and small game would be available also. I wondered what had brought the builder of the house to this spot. Maybe it was a prospector. Or maybe someone just wanted to get away from society. The desert attracts these kinds of people. The builder of the house probably lived here prior to 1936, when the area was declared part of Joshua Tree National Monument. Looking at my maps, it would have been a long hike out to civilization pre-1936. To me, it looked like it would be very difficult to drive here, although I had seen some old faint tire tracks. Well, enough speculation. I needed to plan the rest of my trip and get some sleep.
The next morning I hiked further down the main canyon and found the other spring. It was dry. Locating a navigable side canyon on the other side of the main canyon, I worked my way back up to the ridge that would eventually take me back to my car. I didn’t give the rock house another thought for several years.
Mystery Solved
In 1981, Colin Fletcher published a book titled, The Man From the Cave. A short time after it’s publication I read it. The book is the story about a man who had lived in my local area. Fletcher had found a trunk in a cave along the Colorado River, just below Boulder City, Nevada. Plotted as a detective story, Fletcher sets out to discover who this man was. And it turns out the man, Chuckawalla Bill, lived throughout the lower Colorado Desert and occupied the rock house I had found in the early 1930’s with a woman named Grace. He didn’t build the house, but did refurbish it. The book was intriguing, especially Fletcher’s sleuthing. Fletcher did a lot of “romancing” of Bill’s character, but it made a good story. One thing I had not noticed at the rock house was that Chuckawalla Bill scribed his name in the mortar above the fireplace.
After reading the book, I went back up to the rock house, this time taking the same shorter route as Fletcher did. I wanted to take a closer look at it, because I had missed a lot of the little details that Fletcher had focused on. But this is to be expected. To me it was just another rock structure — I had seen many. For Fletcher it was a quest to reconstruct Chuckawalla Bill’s life, and to dig deep for the little details of “how” he lived. Upon my return, I immediately noticed the inscription on the fireplace. After this trip the rock house held no further fascination or interest to me. To Fletcher, Chuckawalla Bill was a kindred spirit searching for his place in the world. To me he was a quasi-prospector, drifter, and sometime con-man. But he must have had an appreciation for the beauty of the desert. Over the next few years I would occasionally hike in this canyon because it is 10 miles long and offered great exploration of the many side canyons, and at times would seek water at the spring (which was sometimes dry). During these hikes I would sometimes run into one of the Monument’s Rangers. A nice fellow who would drive down to the mouth of the canyon once a week to make sure no one was violating the Wilderness policies. Also over the years I would run into this same Ranger in other parts of the Monument.
62nd Birthday Trip
It had been at least 25 years since my last trip in the canyon, and I was looking forward to this trip — wondering if anything had changed — especially since it was now included in a damned trail guide.
I was fairly certain the spring would be dry and I wanted to re-do my original hike in the area, which meant not hiking to it using the route Fletcher took. So I cached two gallons of water above the canyon and then drove my truck to my original starting point. There would be one variation to my original trip. I would enter the canyon much higher via a less direct route due to the need to circle around and pick up my water cache. Also, I would need to go back to the water cache after the trip was completed to pick up the two empty gallon jugs used to cache my water. But entering higher up the canyon would be safer than my original descent.
Now if you want to make this trip, you need to read Fletcher’s book and have an interest in the story, Chuckawalla Bill, and the house. Or you need to be a true desert affectionado — otherwise the trip will probably lack inspiration — unless done in spring during a wet year when the desert is in full bloom.
The hike starts in the high desert (Mohave) and drops down into the low desert (Colorado). Once I started down into the canyon and walking a couple of miles, I had high hopes. I saw no trash or vandalism.
One advantage on an internal frame backpack is the ability to scramble down or up rock pour-overs like the one above much easier than with an external frame pack. This is probably a 20 foot obstacle. But I got down it easily with my 40 year old Kelty external frame pack.
An isolated Pinyon Pine. Very full foliage. I wonder if there is water seep in this location. I started to investigate, but didn’t want to bother with all the thorny Cat Claw. It’ll have to wait for another day.
However I did see some mountain bike and dirt bike tire tracks in the canyon wash, and pretty high up too. As I descended the number of tire tracks increased, but no other damage noted. This fact ticked me off. The National Park Service is not doing its job protecting the wilderness. A quarter century ago there was an effective barrier at the mouth of the canyon to keep vehicles out, and a weekly patrol monitored the canyon. Again, the NPS is not doing its job of protecting this designated wilderness area, but they are doing a fine job of improving the roads through the main portion of Joshua Tree National Park, so tourists can speed through and view the sites from their air conditioned capsules. Perhaps it is time to blow up all the entrances to the Park and keep vehicles out! In the 1990’s Joshua Tree’s classification was changed from a National Monument to a National Park.
Notice the tire track in the lower center of this picture.
View down canyon.
Following the wash (and tire tracks).
The Rock House
Finally I made it to Bill’s side canyon and hiked up to the house. Part of the front wall has collapsed into a pile of rubble. Probably the result of an earthquake; at least I hope so. Much better than some two legged moron deciding to knock it down. As expected, the spring was dry.
In wet years the spring cascades down this pour-over and creates a pool at the bottom, then trickles down the canyon.
I climbed up beyond the pour-over and found wet soil. With a little work and possibly some digging I would have found water. But I had brought enough with me.
View of the Rock House as I returned from the spring.
I decided once again to sleep on the floor of the house. I was a little concerned that the walls might not be stable, but all was well. There are more shrubs growing out of the floor than 25 years ago — just Nature reclaiming what is her’s. I set out my gear and then went out onto the shelf and just sat until it got dark.
Night camp in the rock house.
The inscription is “Chuckawalla Bill 1934 A.D.”
After eating dinner, I again went out and sat for quite a while. There was a partial moon and the canyon was illuminated by moonbeams. The moon soon dropped from my view, blocked by the hill behind me, and the remaining moonlight danced on the canyon wall in front of me. Another hour and the canyon was dark. Stars started multiplying and populating the night sky. Jupiter became the the brightest object and I fell asleep after seeing a couple shooting stars to the west.
In the morning I had my normal instant oatmeal and coffee breakfast, and by 7 am I was heading down canyon. The tire tracks increased, but no other damage was seen. After a couple miles I turned east and worked my way out of the canyon. Not sure what kind of damage/vandalism I would have found near the wilderness boundary at the mouth of the canyon. I didn’t have the heart to go further and find out.
Back up in the high desert the terrain is covered by a cast of thousands. Main players are Joshua Tree, Scrub Oak, Juniper and Pinyon Pine.
Joshua Tree Forest.
Gear
Today many people think that backpackers in the 70’s and 80’s carried heavy loads — 50, 60 or more pounds. Not true. My normal three season base weight was always less than 20 pounds. This was for short and long trips. The gear I took on this trip was pretty typical of what I used during most of the 70’s. Actually I took more in the way of clothes for this particular trip, taking clothes that would keep me warm in temperatures below freezing, which was not as cold as it would get. But I wanted to determine what my actual 1970’s base weight was. Back in those days I only weighed the total pack weight (not base) and it was almost always less than 40 pounds including food, water and fuel.
Pack Base Weight = 18lbs, 4.99 ounces
Consumables = 14 lbs, 0.16 ounces (1 gallon water, 6 lbs food, 14 oz fuel)
Total Pack Weight = 32 lbs, 5.15 ounces
Worn/Carried = 6 lbs, 11.30 ounces
Total Weight from the skin out (FS0) = 39lbs, 0.45 oz
I am not abandoning my McHale packs. The are by far the best backpacks I have ever own. But it is fun to occasionally dig out the old gear and take a nostalgia trip like this one. One advantage of an external frame pack is that with a walking staff it makes a great seat.
Propping up the pack with a walking stick.
Pack is now converted into a back rest. Also the external pockets are convenient for getting needed rest stop items.
Comfy!
Find a well placed rock and your night camp has a perfect headboard with convenient storage. Sit up and you can cook right in bed.
Kitchen and Utility Gear. (Left to right, and top to bottom)
CANTEENS, SIGG FUEL BOTTLE, SVEA 123 STOVE, POT HOLDER, SPOON, LENSATIC COMPASS & MAPS, WATERPROOF MATCHES, KNIFE, TROWEL, TOILET PAPER & MATCHES, 1 QUART POT, SIERRA CUP, COFFEE CONTAINER, TOOTH CARE & SOAP, FIRST AID KIT IN METAL BAND-AID BOX, FLASHLIGHT.
Colonial 3-Blade Jack Knife
Weighs 1.31 oz and is abo ut 3 inches long. Has three blades. Bought it in 1971 for a couple dollars. Still in excellent shape and the blades are sharp. Made in the USA.
Duracell Flashlight
Actually I bought a couple of these in 1985. I had been using plastic Mallory
flashlights that broke after a year or two. So I bought two of these Duracells expecting the same results. Both are still working!
Sierra Cup
Wonderful invention. Although there are no measurement graduations, and is easy to tip over. But you can drink hot liquids out of it without burning the lips. The handle can hang from all kinds of attachment points.
Notice how the wire handle wraps around the cup and the top of the cup is rolled over the wire effectively insulating the lip.
First Aid Kit
I had forgot I had this. The band-aids were all stuck together, so I replaced them. Above the band-aids are Moleskins for blisters. Haven’t used them in years. Left bottom is a Chouinard Expedition Sewing Kit.
Clothes and Other Gear in Pack
Left to Right and Top to Bottom.
COTTON LONG JOHNS (ON TOP OF PONCHO TARP), WOOL SWEATER, REI 60/40 MOUNTAIN PARKA, TENT STAKES IN BAG, WOOL TROUSERS, WOOL WATCH CAP, WOOL GLOVES, BANDANNA.
It has been decades since I used cotton base layers and I had forgotten how nice and comfortable they are to sleep in. The REI Mountain Parka is water resistant. For serious rain, I use the poncho.
Gear Worn and Carried
Boonie Hat, Pivetta Boots, Corduroy Shorts, Plain Cotton/Polyester Shirt, Wool Blend Socks, Tracks Hiking Staff.One think about Pivetta boots is they need little breaking in. There is padding between the outer and inner leather. The outer is one piece leather. Because they are constructed with a Norwegian welt (time consuming and expensive), the soles are narrower than most other leather boots. I quit wearing corduroy shorts in the 80’s, switching to lighter nylon. After this trip, I am going to reevaluate that decision. The wide leg openings allow them to breath well and they are much more comfortable when sitting on rocks or hard surfaces than nylon. I purchased the staff in the 80’s also. In the 70’s I usually hiked with a Yucca staff.
Military Watch
I wore my military issued watch until the 80’s, replacing it with a battery operated unit. This one still keeps extremely accurate time. Just need to remember to wind it up every day. The band is not original.
Gear List
San Jacinto Loop (2010)
DAD’S EXCELLENT MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND ADVENTURE
Several months ago, there was an interest in Southern California hikers on backpackinglight.com getting together for a trip. Going on a group trip is something I have never done. But in the spirit of the BPL community, I offered to plan a trip that I had done last year. I wanted to limit it to 4 people max.
Craig Wisner “signed up” for the trip right away. No one else from BPL asked to join.
The planned trip was:
Day 1: The desert floor in Palm Springs to the Summit of Mt. San Jacinto, then 1 mile down to Little Round Valley.
Day 2: Little Round Valley to Cedar Springs.
Day 3: Cedar Springs to Palm Springs where we left our vehicles.
The trip was planned in January, but due to a record snowfall, I decided to change it a little bit at the last moment. There was still so much snow on the ground that summiting Mt. San Jacinto might require an ice axe and crampons, extra gear I did not want to carry on such a long trip. So Craig and I agreed to skip the summit, shortening the trip by about 7 miles.
I also was not sure about hiking with someone I did not know personally. It seemed to me that personality could make or break a trip. Also, I am almost twice Craig’s age, and he is in great physical shape, running 50K races as a hobby. My concern was that I would hold him back, possibly causing strife. Lastly, based on posts on BPL, we seemed diametrically opposites in regard to our politics and our view of the world.
But as we kept in contact via email during our planning for several months, I began to feel that he might just be a good fit as a hiking partner.
On Saturday May 29 we met at the Palm Springs Art Museum at 4:45 AM. After greetings and such, we hit the trail at 5:00 AM. The planned hike for the day would be to hike up to Long Valley (the area of the Palm Springs Tram), and then on to Wellman Divide for a night camp. Camping in the State San Jacinto Wilderness is only permitted in specific campgrounds, but in winter snow camping is permitted outside of the designated areas.
It was a beautiful morning as we headed up the trail and the sun started to rise. We took our time and we stopped many times as I pointed out geographic points in the Coachella Valley below. The high temperature for Palm Springs was predicted to be in the 90’s, but as we gained altitude we maybe had a high of around 80-85 degrees F.
The hike to Long Valley is 11 miles with an elevation gain of 8,000 feet. This is known as the Desert Skyline Trail. It is not an official trail, and the government agencies and Riverside County Rescue Unit do not like the trail, because the majority of rescues and deaths in the San Jacinto’s occur on this trail. From Long Valley, it is another 3 miles to Wellman Divide, and 2 of those miles would be in snow. This 2nd section is a 1,000-foot elevation gain from the Tram Area. We both wore ultra light cross country racing flats, instead of boots or trail running shoes, and we carried plastic bags to be used as waterproof socks (ultra light!), in case we would need waterproofing for our feet in the snow. As it turned out, we never used the plastic bags.
During the strenuous Skyline hike, we had a great time discussing all kinds of topics and getting to know each other. I brought a camera, but was enjoying myself so much, that stopping to take pictures would have been a distraction. So I don’t have many pictures to share. Sometimes a camera becomes a heavy burden for the mind.
The “8 MILES TO GO ROCK”
The “8 MILES THERE IS NO WATER ROCK”
The “YOU MIGHT DIE SIGN” about 2 miles into the hike
We made fairly good time, finishing the Skyline Trail in about 8 hours. At about the 9-mile mark, I landed heavily on a pointed rock, and it felt like I had bruised the ball of my left foot. I mentioned it to Craig, and told him that it was bothering me, and wanted to stop to check it out, once we topped out near the Tram. Craig had forgotten his lip balm, so we agreed to take a break below the Tram station. I would check out my injury, and Craig would hike up to the Tram Station and purchase some balm. As we walked, it felt like I might have damaged the sole of my shoe, and it could have cracked it, causing the split to pinch my foot. These are light shoes, only weighing 7.4 ounces each. Once we got near the Tram, I stopped at the Ranger Station to refill one of my water bottles. I had already finished the last of my 4 liters when we got to the Tram Area. So while Craig was getting his balm, I inspected the shoe, and it was okay. I figured it was just a bruise, and did not look at my foot. Craig filled one bottle with water, as we would fill the rest of them at Round Valley, which would be about a mile from the area we would stop for the night.
About a mile after we left Long Valley, most of the trail was covered with snow all the way to Round Valley. We stopped in Round Valley to fill our water bottles for dinner, breakfast and drinking water for the next morning. Craig added purification drops to his and I used purification tablets. The water was ice cold, coming out of a piped spring. While we stopped, two groups of hikers arrived, all carrying humongous packs.
We now had one mile to go, with a 500-foot elevation gain ahead. No trail, all snow. At the top, in a saddle, we found a wonderful dry campsite among all the snow, tucked inside a ring of boulders and surrounded by trees. Day one was now completed, 14 miles of some very hard hiking, gaining 9,000 feet in elevation. The sun beamed down on us until it set, and surprisingly also beamed down on us in the morning when we got up. I will attribute that to skillful site selection.
We quickly set up camp and cooked dinner. I had a freezed-dried Mountain House brand spaghetti dinner, and was jealous of Craig’s Ramon noodles with fresh spinach and mushrooms. We celebrated the first day with a little whiskey Craig provided. During the night, the wind probably dropped the temperature down into the 30F’s but we were warm and comfy. Craig in his Western Mountaineering SummerLite sleeping bag, and me in my Nunatak Arc Specialist quilt. During the night we were entertained by a full moon and of course a star filled sky. We slept on plastic sheets and pads. No shelter to hide our view of the world.
Craig is a get up and go without breakfast kind of guy, preferring to eat cold food while hiking. But he was fine waiting for me to cook my oatmeal and coffee for breakfast. We both have a similar backpacking style, and can pack up and leave in the morning in a matter of minutes. Before we left, I inspected my left foot, and the entire ball of my foot was one huge blister. Craig used to be an EMT, and is very knowledgeable. We determined it was not a friction blister, but caused by trauma, and had grown during the previous day’s impact and continued hiking. Since the blister was into the folds of my toes, I felt it was best to leave it and not lance it. So we hit the trail.
It took a few minutes to traverse some snow and boulders to find the trail down through Wellman Cienega and it was snow free for maybe ½ mile. But as we descended the route became all snow for about a mile or more. Our racing flats worked perfect, and Craig led the way kicking steps in the steep sections. The coolness of the snow soothed my foot, and I was able to keep a steady pace. We met a few hikers along the trail. Once we got near Saddle Junction (3 miles into our hike), we saw the largest pack I have ever seen, and strapped to the top was a huge bag of dog food. The owner was not around. There was no snow at Saddle Junction (8,500 feet).
CRAIG LEADS THE WAY
Hmm…. WHERE’S THE TRAIL
SOMEWHERE DOWN THERE IS SADDLE JUNCTION
As we hiked a wide trail side-by-side, we resolved most of the world’s problems, and we missed our junction to the Pacific Crest Trail. My fault. I have been on this trail many times. When I finally realized we probably were on the wrong trail, and we turned around, it was a 6-mile mistake round trip!! So we turned around and headed back. I felt so bad, and kept apologizing, but Craig would hear nothing of the kind. On the way back, we passed the owner of the huge pack with dog food and his SAINT BERNARD dog. Wow, what a huge animal.
We got to the meadow in Little Tahquitz Valley around noon, and filled our water bottles, as it would be 15 miles to our next water source, and wewould be hiking many miles in the hot sun, when we dropped down to the Desert Divide section of the PCT. We had done 9 miles in 5 hours, including a slow-down over the snow.
As we headed out, we soon encounter a several miles of no trail but snow, some of it up to 4 feet deep, and at only 8,000 feet elevation. Craig again led the way, and set the pace, kicking steps where we needed them on the steeper slopes. We finally cleared the snow and started down towards the Desert Divide and dry trail. My foot started to hurt, and we stopped for water, a check of the map, and a plan for the rest of the day. If I could not make it to Cedar Spring, we could take a one-mile detour to Apache Spring for water. But we would have enough water even if we had to camp before our next source. I felt I could make all the way to Cedar Spring, but knowing the trail, told Craig we might not get there until 8 or 9 PM. So, that being resolved, we enjoyed the view of South Peak, Spliter Peak, Anstell Rock and Apache peak; while snacking on Cliff Bars, junk food and enjoying our cold water. Most PCT hikers do this section from south to north, and often do not get to appreciate the view we would have for the few hours.
While we were soaking in the view, a group of hikers approached. The last hiker was Glen Van Peski, the founder of Gossamer Gear, a well known ultra light equipment manufacturer in Austin, Texas. I had met him a year ago on the same trail. Amazingly, he recognized me and even remembered my name. The guy must have a photographic memory. I own many pieces of gear made by his company. After a brief conversation of trail conditions they were heading towards, Craig and I got up and resumed our hike. Even with my sore foot, I was able to go non-stop with an occasional break for water and a snack. We had a wonderful time, other than the parts of the trail on the east side of the divide that are high desert and the sun that beat down on us. Amazingly, we would hike in high desert for a while, then traverse up to pine trees; over and over.
Once we passed the Apache Spring turn-off, we descended towards Fobes Saddle, a trail section that is mostly shade. We got to the Saddle around 6 PM, and my foot was rather sore, but not enough to stop me. I know the blister had popped, as there was no longer a hump on the ball of my foot. At Fobes Saddle, we met a couple of guys with large packs, who were setting up camp in the scrub oak clearing that is often used as a cache on the PCT. They were on a multi-day trip, with conventional heavy gear. Of course a talk about equipment ensued, and they were in disbelief when we told them each of our complete kits weighed less than one of their empty packs. I let one of them lift my pack, and then shocked them when we told them we were going on to Cedar Springs (5 miles away) that day. We quickly climbed the seemingly endless switchbacks out of the saddle, leaving the desert for a cool pine forest high above the desert to the west, and Garner Valley to the east. We saw some people stealth camping in the forest, as we approached the ridgeline of a manzanita forest. This section of the trail is mostly rocks, and I slowed as I tried to avoid as many rocks and stones as possible. We soon got to the Cedar Spring turn off, and descended the mile down to the spring. It is amazing that we were dropping down in elevation from high desert and into a lush forest of incense cedar. It was now 9:00 PM. I was almost out of water, and while Craig set up his site for the night, I filled my water bottles. For dinner I had one my favorites, freeze-dried Mountain House Lasagna with meat sauce. But what really looked good was the bean burrito Craig built for himself. We chatted for a while, and contemplated what our mileage for the day was. It was 24.3, as I determined later from the mileage markers on our Harrison Map. It was much warmer than the previous night, as a camp was at 6,400 feet elevation, more than 3,000 feet lower than the first night’s camp.
The next morning was a quick cup of coffee, and a couple Cliff bars. Craig filled his bottles at the spring, and we started the last leg at 6:30 AM, which would be a 12.7 mile hike, and a 5,500 foot elevation drop. As we crossed Garnet Ridge into the West Fork of Palm Canyon, the temperature rose quickly. Traveling with no shade at all, the temperature was right around 100F when we arrived at the Agua Caliente Indian Trading post at around 11:30 AM. Craig got the Coca Cola he had been craving for 3 days, and I feasted on a Popsicle. From there we hiked about 4 miles in the heat of the day. Once we got into the business section of Palm Springs, we decided to take a bus the last two miles. No use hiking through the city, and Craig had a 100 mile drive back home, with the possibility of holiday traffic. The bus had a much-welcomed air conditioning system, and we were quickly near the starting point of our hike. Craig treated me to a Starbuck’s Frappacino, and we hiked the last two blocks to our vehicles. And that was our Excellent Adventure, with an Excellent Hiking Partner.
My Gear List
- GG LT4 Trekking Poles
- Food
- Quilt
- Spare clothes
- Worn Cloths
- Caldera Cone, Stove, Lexan Spoon
- GG NightLight Torso Pad
- Saucony Shay Racing Flats
- Trowel (required by regulations
- First Aid Kit
- Personal Items Kit
- Fuel Bottle
- Tilley Hat
- GG Murmur Pack
- Maui Jim Bifocal Sunglasses
- Camera
- Micro Light and Whistle
- Timex Watch
- Map
- Plastic Bag Water Socks
- GG Polycro Ground Sheet
- 2 L Platy
- 1 L Platy (2 ea)
Pack Base Weight (all gear including the pack): 3 lbs 14.8 oz
Consumables (water and food): 12 lbs 7.3 oz
Pack Weight (Total): 16 lbs 6.0 oz
Worn Items: 3 lbs 8.4 oz
Total (From the Skin Out): 19 lbs 14.4 oz
Itemized Gear List
My Backpack On The Office Chair For A Size Perspective
San Jacinto Loop (2009)
Dad’s Memorial Weekend Trip 2009
Cactus to Clouds Trail – PCT – Jo Pond Loop (May 22 – 24, 2009)
Trip Description:
- 3 day loop of the San Jacinto Mountains
- Total Mileage: ~ 61 miles
- Elevation Gain / Loss: 10,568 feet / 10,568 feet
- Temperature Range: 45F – 97F
Day 1:
- Palm Springs Art Museum to Mt San Jacinto (Cactus to Clouds Trail Trail)
- Mt San Jacinto to Little Round Valley
Elevation gain: 10,568 feet
Mileage: ~ 17.75
Day 2:
- Little Round Valley to Mt San Jacinto
- Mt San Jacinto to Wellman Divide
- Wellman Divide to Saddle Junction
- Saddle Junction to Little Tahquitz Valley
- Little Tahquitz Valley to Pacific Crest Trail
- Pacific Crest Trail to Fobes Saddle
Elevation Loss: 4,420 feet
Mileage: ~ 23 miles
Day 3:
- Fobes Saddle to Cedar Springs
- Cedar Springs to Jo Pond Trail
- Jo Pond Trail to Palm Springs Indian Canyon Visitor Center
- Palm Springs Indian Canyon Visitor Center to Palm Springs Art Museum
Elevation Loss: 6,148 feet
Mileage: ~ 21 miles
Background
Sometimes great ideas pop into your head in the middle of the night, and often those ideas are not so great the next morning. The idea of doing a loop through the San Jacinto Mountains from the desert floor occurred to me… well it woke me out of a dead sleep, shortly after midnight. When I got up in the morning, it seemed like an even better idea.
The goal was to hike the Cactus to Clouds Trail, and put together a round trip route that would take 3-4 days. Hiking this trail and other routes presents some challenges. Specifically dealing with weather and water. The Cactus to Clouds Trail begins on the desert floor in Palm Springs and ends at the peak of Mt San Jacinto. The trail gains 10,568 feet over approximately 17.5 miles. This would just be the first day. Then I would need to devise another route to return to the starting point.
The optimum time to hike the Cactus to Clouds Trail is May/June or October/November. This is due to the desert climate over the first 11 miles and an 8,000 foot elevation gain. This section has no water, and daytime temperatures can exceed 100F. During the other 8 months of the year, the hike at the 7,000 – 8,000 foot level can be treacherous with snow and ice chutes. During this period, this section often requires an ice axe and crampons. Most hikers attempting the route in the late spring typically start the hike a couple hours before sunrise to minimize the full sun on the east facing side of the mountain. If this loop is hiked during the months of May or June, water can be found in the streams and springs in upper elevations, once you finish the first 11 miles. Doing the loop in October or early November, water in streams and springs can dry up in the high country. So the perfect time to hike a loop would be in May.
Some facts about the Cactus to Clouds Trail (also known as the Skyline Trail): The trail is known as having the greatest elevation gain of any one-day hike in the continental US. The route crosses through 6 ecosystems, the most of any one-day hike in the lower 48 states. The hike starts in the Lower Sonora Zone and ends in an Arctic Alpine Zone. It would be like hiking from Mexico to Canada in one day. After I finished this trip, a friend told me that Backpacker Magazine listed the Cactus to Clouds trail as the 5th most difficult day hike in the United States.
Some caveats about hiking this trail: It is a cross-country route and not on any map. The first 7,000 feet is well worn and easily identified. The last 1,000 feet (1+ miles) is a scramble up ravines with loose and rocky soil. Navigation and footing are not ideal. There is no water for 11 miles and 8,000 feet of elevation gain. Many people hike the lower 11-mile section, and usually take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway back down. A few will continue to the Peak and return to the Tram, a total hike of 23 miles. The trail requires many Search and Rescue operations each year, and several people have died on the trail, usually during the winter season. The latest fatality occurred, May 21, 2009, due to heat exhaustion. The BLM, City of Palm Springs, and State of California discourage its use, and there are many foreboding warning signs posted on the first couple of miles of the trail. However, with properly planning, water, and equipment Cactus to Clouds Trail is a great hike. The Cactus to Clouds Trail – PCT – Jo Pond Loop is probably the most diverse 3-day hike in the continental US… at least in my opinion.
Now for the hike: Due to my job, I had several projects that rolled into the weekends prior, and had not been able to do any long preparatory hikes. I wanted to complete the hike in 3 days, so I could spend Memorial Day at home with Joyce. Feeling that 3 days might be a stretch, my itinerary called for 4 days. I didn’t want Joyce to panic if I did not make it back in 3, which was my real goal. The route traverses some private land (the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation), the San Jacinto State Wilderness, the San Jacinto US Forest Wilderness, and the San Bernardino National Forest; requiring separate permits from each Wilderness agency. I obtained the necessary permits by mail a month in advance. Because I was not in optimal condition, I put together a Super Ultra Light Gear list. Total weight of my backpack and gear weighed under 4 pounds, plus my food and water. Although rain was unlikely, I carried a poncho/tarp set-up in case of injury, which would provide shelter in the desert areas. Also to reduce the effort of hiking I wore Cross Country Racing Flats, at 5.3 ounces each instead of hiking boots or trail running shoes. It is estimated that one pound on the foot is equal to carrying 5 pounds in the pack, as far as energy expended. Due to the need to carry extra water, minimizing every ounce is crucial to this trip, and I don’t know of anyone who has ever done this loop as a single hike.
Day 1
I left on Friday morning of the Memorial Day weekend, in order to avoid other hikers that are on the trails on most weekends. I hit the trail at 5:30 AM, opting to skip the typical pre-dawn start. Upon hoisting my pack, I took out my new camera to take a picture and found the battery was dead. Leaving the camera connected to my computer over night, with the computer off, must have drained the battery. I left the camera in the truck, and saved 5 ounces in weight. So instead of taking pictures of the hike, I will include some Google Earth pictures of the route. The routes are freehand, and are an approximation of the hike. Not having a camera was enjoyable. Instead of looking for photo opportunities, I just enjoyed my hike. By noon, the temperature was 90F. I only saw one person on the trail, a fellow who was doing a short 4 mile round trip. I carried 4 liters of water, probably 2 liters shy of what is generally recommend for this time of year. Because I live in the desert and am acclimated to the heat, I was comfortable with this amount of water, which weighed almost 9 pounds.
I did see a fox early in the morning. No other notable wildlife was seen in this harsh desert environment, although I was hoping I might chance upon a Big Horn Sheep. The trail ascends a long ridge and the serpentine route provides alternating views of Tahquitz and Tachevah canyons, along with the pearl of the desert, Palm Springs. The lower section is primarily creosote bush, desert willow, burro bush, and a few ironwood trees. Then, almost as if a line was drawn across the face of the ridge, there was ribbonwood, manzanita, scrub oak and then a few pinion pines. Most of the day was in full sun, although there was occasional shade in stands of ribbonwood. Late afternoon finally brought shade of pine and fir trees, although greater physical exertion was required in the thinning air and steep terrain. Once the last ravine was scaled, I finished the last of the water. I now was in the State Wilderness area, a lush forest of pine and fir trees. This section of wilderness does not feel like “wilderness.” The Palm Springs Aerial Tram deposits thousands of tourists here every year. The trails are more like roads, with log curbs outlining most of the trails in Long and Round Valleys, to (hopefully) keep idiots out of meadows and fragile areas. Hiking toward the Long Valley Ranger Station to refill my water bottles, I passed a pedestal with a sign declaring “Meet Jeff” and describing the Jeffery Pine tree behind it. I say, dismantle the tram, and let the “wilderness area” revert to a real wilderness. And let the people buy books if they want to learn about trees… why pollute the area with signs? Oh, well!! I filled my water bottles, and started the 5.5-mile trek to the peak. Good thing I started my trip on Friday and not Saturday, which would have had dozens of people hiking the trail to the peak, after taking a short ride on the tram. As I hiked through Long Valley and Round Valley, there were a few hikers on the trail. Saw a couple of deer in the meadow in Round Valley. After enjoying the 360-degree view at the peak, I headed down the other side to Little Round Valley for my night camp.
By this time, I was exhausted and my legs were sore. The aches were so extreme, I feared that the following morning I might not be able to continue the hike, and would need to take the tram down and cancel the rest of the trip. In addition, to save weight I had only brought a torso sized 3/8” foam pad to sleep on, which might cause me a restless and poor nights sleep. I cooked dinner, took two Advil’s and went to sleep.
Google Earth picture of the Cactus to Clouds Trail Trail to the top of Mt San Jacinto
Here is a graphic of the Cactus to Clouds elevation gain versus miles that someone posted on backpackinglight.com
Day 2
Saturday morning, I stretched my legs and walked around while cooking breakfast (boiling water for instant oatmeal) and felt very good. Amazingly good. My conservative goal for the day was to make camp just past Little Tahquitz Valley. Because my legs felt so good, I now considered trying to hike all the way to Cedar Spring, which would be a mostly downhill and 28-mile hike. Time would tell. I left around 5:00AM. Once I was off the peak two rangers who wanted to check my permits stopped me. They were skeptical about my light gear, but one was very interested in my backpack, once they saw I had done the Cactus to Clouds Trail. I kidded him that his empty pack weighed more than all my gear. After a friendly chitchat, I headed towards Saddle Junction, shaded by Lodge Pole Pines, and then Jeffery Pines towering over ferns and skunk cabbage.
It was Saturday and the hordes of hikers were struggling uphill and I cruised downhill past them. The temperature was cool and patches of snow still lay along the trail. I greeted many folks, and answered slews of questions about the trail ahead, and made excellent time. At Saddle Junction, the main trail from Idyllwild to the San Jacinto State Wilderness quickly was behind me, and I would see few other hikers for the rest of the day. From Saddle Junction it is a short hike to Tahquitz Valley and then Little Tahquitz Valley. I hit Little Tahquitz Valley around 10:30 AM, and still feeling good, decided to make Cedar Spring the day’s destination, instead of the original plan to camp a few miles past Little Tahquitz Valley. I refilled all my water bottles, because the next water was at Apache Spring 8 miles away, and just in case I could not make it, I wanted to make sure I had plenty of water. Leaving Little Tahquitz Valley the trail connects to the famous Pacific Crest Trail. This section of the PCT, is called the Desert Divide Trail and the mountain ridge separates Garner Valley and Thomas Mountain on the west from the magnificent desert canyons with their palm tree oasis’s on east. This 20+ plus mile section is my favorite part of the San Jacinto Mountains. The granite mountain and trees are reminiscent of the High Sierras. The miles rolled by and most of my time was occupied with high mountain vistas. My legs started to tire by the time I got to the Apache Spring trail junction, but decided to keep on going.
During a steep, narrow section, several hikers were headed down hill towards me. I stepped to the side to let them pass. The last person slowed to look at my gear and hesitated. He looked familiar, and asked him if we had met before. We had not and he introduced himself as Glen Van Peski, the owner of Gossamer Gear, whose backpack and hiking poles, I was carrying with me. We talked for a few minutes. Glen is a real gentleman.
My hike continued and as I hit Fobes saddle, the wind started blowing hard. Decision time. Should I continue the remaining 5 miles to Cedar Springs, on the windy, exposed ridge, or just stop. If I stopped, then I would spend the heat of the next day descending the Jo Pond Trail into the desert. However, continuing with tired legs and extreme wind could lead to an injury. Common sense prevailed, and I stopped and made a night camp in the protection of a grove of scrub oak. Again cooking dinner on my lightweight alcohol stove and pot (stove is ½ half of a cola can and the pot a recycled Foster beer can). After an enjoyable meal of freeze-dried spaghetti and meatballs, I took two more Advil’s and went to sleep well before sunset.
Google Earth picture of day 2, Little Round Valley to Fobes Saddle
Day 3
Sunday morning was calm and clear. I felt even better than the previous morning. Met two hikers on the trail, and then a group of mountain bikers who were packing up their camp at Cedar Springs. These would be the only people I would see all day, until I got to the Indian Canyons in Palm Springs. The hike from Fobes Saddle quickly changed from scrub oak to a forest of pines, firs, and sycamores. Saw a couple mule deer in a meadow. The trail soon mounted the ridgeline along corridor of huge manzanita bushes. Most were above my head in height, and in full bloom. For maybe two miles the drone of millions of bees collecting nectar was all I could hear. Got to Cedar Spring early in the morning, filled the water bottles and took a rest and a check of the topographical map. Then I made the one bad decision of the trip.
Looking at the map, I noticed an old trail I had hiked many years ago that would intersect with the Jo Pond Trail. I decided to head cross-country and pick up this trail. The route was over grown with brush and was difficult going. I caught a branch on my pack and ripped a 1” tear in the side pocket. At this point it was best to abandon the exploration, and turned back to take the Jo Pond Trail down into the desert and the Agua Caliente Indian Canyons. The start of the Jo Pond Trail is shady among the tall Incense Cedars. However, it was short lived and I soon was in the open on a flat plateau heading down canyon. The way down is not really a trail, but a 8 mile route over scree, talus and small rocks. Soon the bottom of my feet began to tire from the beating on the thin soles of the racing flats. The rocks did tear some of the sole material from the shoes, but they held up and got me through it. Other than the inability of these shoes to hold up over time, I was thrilled with their performance. 60+ miles, no break-in period, and no blisters! Soon the temperature hit 97F, seven degrees warmer than the forecast three days ago (who can trust a weatherman anyway?). About a mile from the Indian Trading Post, I drank my last liter of water. The trail had been unprotected from the sun for nearly 8 miles, and the cool shade of the Palm Oasis was a welcomed rest. Stopped at the Trading post, bought a double popsicle to cool off and two liters of water. The journey was almost completed. All that remained was a long walk to downtown Palm Springs where my truck was parked. Got in the truck and called Joyce to surprise her, since I was home a day early. She cooked us a huge pile of fried shrimp and we relaxed. It was good to take a shower and sleep in a soft bed.
Google Earth picture of Fobes Saddle to downtown Palm Springs, at the Desert Art Museum, the starting point of the loop
Google Earth picture of The Loop
Gear List
Gear
Gossamer Gear Murmur Pack
(L) Front view of back. (M) Side view. Notice size of 1 liter bottle in relationship to pack size. (R) Rear View is my folded sleep pad, which functions as the pack frame and padding.
Kitchen
My entire kitchen only weighed 4.7 ounces including fuel (thanks to my friend John Oldford at MSX for talking me into this). The stove is made from a soda can. A 20 oz Foster’s Beer is used as a pot and mug. A special aluminum cone acts as a windscreen and holds the pot above the stove. A cylinder made for Reflectix material is used to lift the hot pot and is used as a insulator. Tin foil is used as the lid for the pot. A titanium spork is the only untensil needed.
Red Rock Canyon, Nevada – Day Hike (Apr 2010)
I did a day hike to check out the area for possible backpacking trips. Hike the entire loop trail and did some exploring in several side canyons. Overnight camping is allowed at higher elevations and a permit is required. I have done a few trips since then. Be prepared to see wild burros and big horn sheep!
Best time for a day hike is on weekends, and not in summer, although I did a trip in July 2012 and temps were well into the triple digits. No water is available most of the year.
There is a loop trail (approx 12 miles) that is very enjoyable. But there will be cars and people at the vista points. But most of the trail is usually empty. Here are some pictures.
Lake Mead Trip Reports Added
Lake Mead Walk-about (2011)
Dad’s Christmas Vacation 2011
FOR NICOLE AND JOE
Backpacking Lake Mead Recreation Area
My Christmas present from Joyce was a “kitchen pass” to go backpacking between Christmas and New Year’s. The week before this we were camping at Lake Mead in the tent trailer.
Usually I hike this time of year in the Lake Mead area of Nevada. But this year I decided to hike into Arizona; into and near several canyons near the Colorado River. Since this is all desert, I would replenish my water every two days working back and forth from the river.
Preparation for the trip was just loading my backpack. Once I got to Nevada, I planned on stopping at the Lake Mead Visitor’s center for the maps I would need. I have been there before and they have a good selection of USGS Topographic maps. Maps are critical, since I would be hiking in the backcountry where there are almost no trails and few people venture to some of the places I would be in. Also, there is no cell phone coverage. The Visitor Center had closed down 18 months ago for remodeling, so I assumed (silly me) that it would be open. Well, it was closed. Still under construction; Amazing! It took 3 years to build Hoover Dam, and the government cannot remodel a small building in 18 months. So I drove to the district office in Boulder City, and they could not sell me any maps because they are in storage and no one knows where. But I could buy plenty of souvenirs. Made a few phone calls, and no maps anywhere. Okay, plan B – I loaded maps onto my iPhone. Kind of risky, because dead batteries or breaking it could be a bad thing. Biggest worry was dead batteries. The morning of the trip, I double-checked all my equipment and NO camera. I forgot it. Well, I could use the iPhone as a camera and risk more chances of a dead battery or breaking it, or drive to Las Vegas and buy a new camera. I decided to risk it.
The start of the hike started from the campground. I hiked through 4 old railroad tunnels cut into the mountains above Hoover dam that were used to bring supplies and construction materials to the dam site. From here I worked my way down to the Dam, walked across it and then walked several miles to a plateau high above the Colorado River, so I could determine where I wanted to go.
Railroad Tunnel #1
Railroad Tunnel #2
Railroad Tunnel #3
Railroad Tunnel #4
Starting point of hike is behind the hill on the left.
I would be walking another mile or so from the vantage point I took the picture of the bridge (above), to get a view of the Colorado River and confirm possible routes to water.The trip started from behind the mountain on the left of this picture. The bridge is the Highway 93 by-pass that diverts thru-traffic away from Hoover Dam, in response to concerns for Terrorist attacks on the dam, as a result of 9-11.
The bridge took 8 years to build, in contrast to Hoover Dam, which took only 5 years to complete. Progress!!
Scouting for a route down to the Colorado River
One thousand feet above the river and no easy way down from here. However, in the left center of the picture is a long canyon that looks like it has easy access, and the phone map confirms it. This means I am going to have to loop around to get to it. So I head east and what do I see?
Fortification Hill
This! The map says it is Fortification Hill, but no trails are marked on the map. But it is just sitting there waiting for me to climb it. It is going to be a two day hike there and back to a water source. Not a smart idea to do when one is hiking solo, but then who said I was smart? Later I would find out that this huge plateau was formed by an extinct volcano and parts of the crater are still visible, but filled with rock and dirt.
It looks like the right side can be climbed, but the top looks vertical. Only one way to find out!
A three mile hike takes me to a dirt road that travels to left of Fortification Hill and eventually to the shore of Lake Mead. I plan on following the road for a couple of miles. Once on the dirt road, I find that is not the way to go, because there are a few people driving on the road. Aside from the dust their vehicles create, they keep stopping and ask me unbelievable questions.
Tourist #1: Is this the way to the Dam?
“No. Hoover Dam was built 75 years ago. Don’t you think they would have built an asphalt road by now? Go back a few miles and turn right when you see the sign, Hoover Dam, with an arrow pointing right.”
Tourist #2: You aren’t going to sleep out there are you?
“No, I am walking non-stop to Phoenix. It is only 250 miles away.”
Tourist #3: You aren’t hiking alone are you?
“Of course not. Can’t you see Harvey my pet rabbit?
Tourist #4: Is there water ahead?
“Yes. Drive about 3 miles down the road. You will find 3.8 trillion gallons of water at the end of the road.
Tourist #5: Hey! Can my Civic make it down the road?
“No, the sign back a couple miles ago said high clearance 4WD vehicles only. You have neither.
Tourist #6: Is your pack heavy?
“No, it is filled with a secret formula of gases. 79% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and a few trace gases make it completely weightless.
I couldn’t take it any longer, so I headed cross country which meant climbing in and out of 3 small canyons to get to the base of Fortification Hill. By now it was getting dark, so I laid out my groundsheet and quilt, and cooked dinner. Temperature would get down just below freezing each night this week.
In the morning it was chilly, so I took my time with breakfast waiting for the sun to hit me. As I sat sipping my coffee, I saw 7 young male Big Horn Sheep practicing head-butting on a ridge. Since it was too far to capture on my phone, I got up and moved closer. They sensed my movements and just stood and watched me. I would see two more of these magnificent animals later in the day.
Big Horn Rams practicing head-butting
By now I needed to get going. I still had not seen a route up the hill, and then it would be over 12 miles to loop back down to the river. Packed up my gear and followed a wash around the south end of the hill. Soon I came to a side canyon that was flowing down from the hill with a sign that said, “Trail Not Maintained. Hike At Your Own Risk.” Perfect, my kind of trail. I followed a faint trail up the canyon, which disappeared in about 800 meters. But it must have been a trail to the top. So I climbed a small ridge that ran parallel to the canyon and found a steep trail that zip-zagged up to the rock face near the top.
Approach to Fortification Hill from the ridge-line
It only took a few minutes to get to the vertical cliff past those huge boulders on the previous page, and I found a route that entailed relatively easy climbing, other than a slip that would turn things into a bad day. Once on the top, I found a relatively flat mesa about ½ mile wide and over a mile long. About a mile ahead was a small summit with a well marked trail in the volcanic rock. For the most part the entire plateau was all volcanic rock with a few plants growing here and there.
Fortification Hill Summit
This moonscape looking rock formation is what the entire mesa looked like, only most of the rocks were much smaller.It only took a few minutes to get to the vertical cliff past those huge boulders on the previous page, and I found a route that entailed relatively easy climbing, other than a slip that would turn things into a bad day. Once on the top, I found a relatively flat mesa about ½ mile wide and over a mile long. About a mile ahead was a small summit with a well marked trail in the volcanic rock. For the most part the entire plateau was all volcanic rock with a few plants growing here and there.
Here are some views from my vantage point on Fortification Hill
Our Campsite at Lake Mead
Las Vegas
Hyw 93 Bridge & Hoover Dam using the zoom in my iPhone – sure wish I had brought my camera!
Looking west towards the Colorado River from Fortification Hill
After taking pictures I headed back down to the mouth of the canyon and ate lunch. It was now 12:30 PM and I needed to get to the river before dark, which was 12 miles in 4 hours or so. Ten of those miles were easy downhill ones, in a large sandy wash. I got to the river just before 5 at dusk, with about a half a cup of water to spare. So I had averaged 3 miles per hours, pretty good… but then most of it was downhill. The last 2 miles of this section was fabulous – a long slot canyon with walls several hundred feet tall. Pictures below:
Since it was almost dark when I got to the River, I did not really know what my campsite selection looked like until I awoke in the morning. It was nice, if I don’t say so myself!
So this is the beginning of Day 3, which would turn out to be the most unusual day of all.
The first order of business for Day 3 was to get out of the Colorado River gorge. The gorge got smaller as I went south, but there was no way out of my present spot unless I retraced my steps, swam down river, or found a way to hike out a canyon about ½ mile south of my night camp. So I chose, door #3. A little rock scrambling got me to where I thought the canyon should start, but I could not find the mouth of the canyon. Then I found a small seep of water and followed it. There were a few sections I had to climb some small “run-over’s” and then there was a 20 foot waterfall – dead end; except that someone had placed a ladder against the vertical rock. How convenient. So up I went. And then, here I found two small pools fed by a hot spring. Water temperature was at least 100F. So, it seemed like a good time to take a Jacuzzi!
Stream coming down the steep canyon
Jacuzzi!!
It was now around noon, my shoes were dry, so I decided to take a lunch break, clean the sand out of my shoes and put my socks back on. It had now been almost two full days since I had seen another person. So here I am sitting on a big rock and I hear footsteps. Look up and this guy, older than me, is coming down the wash. He was wearing water shoes and carrying a small day pack. That’s it. No clothes, completely naked. He said, “Hi,” and kept walking. I was going to take a picture of him walking away, but then I figured, how would I explain this to Joyce? Since I was hiking in shorts, I took off my shirt and socks, and wore my shoes sock-less. Really nice way to start the day. After a 30 minute soak, I put on my shirt, hoisted the backpack and headed up the canyon. Had to climb up a few small sections of slip-rock, and then it was easy going in a sandy wash, with a few sections of slot canyon work.
The rest of the trip was uneventful compared to the first three days, so here are a few pictures.
Love,
Dad.
P.S. Happy New Year!
Hike to a Secret Place
Hike to a Secret Place March 2012
INTRODUCTION
This probably going to be one of the strangest trip reports you have ever read. First, I am not going to tell you where I went, and secondly, many of the descriptions and normal logistics will be purposely camouflaged. The area of this hike is rich in Native American Petroglyphs, and sections have been heavily vandalized in the past – over 150 years worth of vandalism.
The area is in a designated Wilderness Area, and the government agencies charged with protecting these lands have limited enforcement resources. The good news is that the Wilderness Designation has significantly reduced travel in the area, by making the use of motorized and non-motorized vehicles illegal. I visited the two agencies that are responsible for managing the area a got little information. Either the employees just did not know anything, or it is policy not to divulge information. I did get all the information I needed for traveling in the area and what the rules are.
SECRET PLACES
I often avoid places that are well publicized on the Internet or which have been included in a published Trail Guide. Some of these publicized places have gems of solitude and beauty if one travels off the recommended “beaten path.” But to me, the absolute best places to go are areas that no one goes to visit – places without trails, without roads, without mention on the Internet, and without Trail Guide recommendations. These places offer solitude. They feature little or no trash, and often no footprints, not to mention a lack of people.
So how does one find a Secret Place?
First step is to get a big map. A State Road Atlas is excellent. Look at places that have few roads or cities around them. From there, go online and look at the USGS Topographical Maps (they are free), or better yet BLM maps (where available) are excellent at only $3.00 each. These maps are 1:100,000 scale. While they won’t tell you where the most exciting places are, over time you will learn to find them. Over the years, using this methodology, I have visited most of the mountains south of Death Valley to Mexico, and West of the Colorado River to the Pacific Ocean. There are dozens and dozens of mountain ranges in this vast area. Some so small you can circumnavigate them in a day and others so large it takes months to truly know them. Some of these mountains I have traveled extensively and intimately; visiting every side canyon, ridgeline and high peak. Others I have just scratched the surface, and placed on my “To Do” list. I do not have a checklist of places to go, but often just head to a place I have never been before.
This trip was my second time in this particular mountain range. I remember the first time distinctly. It was soon after my daughter, Nicole, was born; 1985. On that trip I had crested a desert pass, and below me lay a large “bajada.” A bajada is an alluvial fan of sand, rocks and debris that turns into a fairly flat plain. This bajada was formed by two small mountain ranges and I would be traveling through this to my next water source, which was between 20 and 30 miles away. But I was running short of water. I would either need to rest during the day and travel at night, or find water in either of these two mountain ranges. My map only showed a “dry spring” in one of the ranges. Most would say it was hardly worth the extra time and effort to check it out with little expectation of water. As I traveled down the gentle slope of the bajada, I eventually was directly opposite of the dry spring, and my binoculars showed an abundance of greenery in the area of the spring. To me it was worth the two mile round trip to find out, plus if water was not available it looked like a cool place to rest in the heat of the day. Not only did I find water, but found hundreds, if not thousands, of Petroglyphs. Since I had a time schedule to keep, I could only place a note in my mind that this was a place to come back and explore further. In the early 1990’s this area was designated an official Wilderness Area, giving me hope that it would not be harmed for future generations.
THE PURPOSE OF THIS TRIP
This trip had several purposes
- To walk around the entire mountain range, a hike that would take most people 3 or 4 days.
- Spend time exploring and photographing petroglyphs.
- A shakedown cruise for my new McHale Bump 32 backpack.
LOGISTICS AND PREPARATION
To get to my starting point of the hike, I would need to travel about 20 miles on dirt roads. Not knowing the condition of the roads, and knowing the dangers of this kind of back country driving, I loaded the
back of my SUV with 8 foot boards to be used a sand ramps in deep soft sand, several platforms for emergency work, 14 gallons of emergency water, air compressor, shovels, and extra tools. I got stuck in sand only one time, and two of the platforms got the vehicle moving in a few minutes.
WATER
This is the limiting factor in most deserts. The way I planned the route, I would need to find water in the “dry spring.” If the spring was dry, I would need enough water to hike back to the SUV; I would not have enough to complete the loop. So I left the truck with 2.5 gallons of water in my pack, which weighed 22 lbs alone. I also brought 4 lbs of food, meaning 26 lbs of consumables, which I felt would be a good test for the Bump backpack. I also brought two items I rarely use, Dirty Girl Gaiters and a hiking staff. Knowing that I would be traveling in areas with small pebbles and stones in abundance, the gaiters would help keep the debris out of my shoes. In sandy conditions, I usually don’t use gaiters because sand will pass through the mesh of my shoes anyway. The hiking staff would be helpful in moving rattlesnakes out of my way since early March can mean plenty of snakes, but I did not have to use it. I didn’t see a single snake on this trip. Temperatures would reach a high of mid 80’s and the lows in the 40’s. No rain was in the forecast, but a chance of nighttime winds with gusts up to 50 mph was a concern, so I brought a zPacks Hexamid for my shelter. Instead of the ultralight titanium tent stakes I usually use, I brought 4 Easton 9” nail spikes and 4 SMC snow stakes. They would be able to handle the kind of soil found in deserts. And as it turned out, winds were mild at night with no need to set up the shelter, but there was no wind during the day to help cool things off either.
THE TRIP
Total weight of pack was 35+ pounds. The volume of the main bag is 33 liters. The stays are bent to contour my back, keeping it close to my body, with no weight bearing on my shoulders, effectively transferring all the weight to the double-buckle hip belt.
The only map I brought was the BLM map, as it would take too many 7.5 minute maps. I had studied the more detailed maps in advance, so they were not needed. However, the dozens of washes originating in the mountains were often 10 to 20 feet deep making travel slow and difficult. Such travel was forcing me to consume too much water, so I moved away from the mountain and traveled in the bajada, after exploring to small canyons. Also the terrain between the washes was covered with “moon” rocks, a toe-stubbing, ankle-twisting gauntlet.
The winter had seen little rain in the desert and large blooms normally don’t occur until mid-April. But there was some flowers and plant life that encouraged time out for viewing and picture taking.
McHale Pack. The small volume of the pack bag was perfect at 33 liters. The optional water pocket can each hold a 64 oz Gatorade bottle. I placed the 6 one-litter Platypus bottles in the main sack, much easier to pack than two-liter ones. I also attached the optional hip pockets, shoulder strap pocket and top lid.
Picture of the McHale Top Lid. The top lid is a new design this year from Dan McHale. It is small but extremely functional. There is a second pocket inside made that is very handy for those small items that get lost easily. Normally I strip my packs down for short hikes, but I will probably take this lid on all my trips with this pack… it worked so well and is very convenient.
Every evening the wind picked up, and a wind shirt and beanie kept me warm enough for hanging around camp and doing chores.
The best tent is no tent where the sky is your canopy. So the difficulty is finding a level spot, soft enough ground to keep from puncturing your air mattress, and a wind break from the wind. Trees and shrubs work well to break the wind, but one must be far enough away so nocturnal creatures don’t feel they have an open invitation to your camp. This site offered wonderful 360 degree views, shelter from wind, and early morning sun. What else could one ask for?
People tell me they don’t like to hike alone; they get lonely with no one to talk to. They also tell me they get bored at night, needing reading material or music to keep them company. I don’t understand it. So here is my recipe for a wonderful evening and peaceful sleep…
Red Rock. Watch the setting sun play with your surroundings. Here the normally black mountains are bright red.
Sunset. Watch the sun set. Observe colors and shadows.
Moon. Learn of the night sky. My camp was oriented with the rising moon behind me. When nightfall arrived, I watched Venus and Jupiter play with the horizon. Once they set below the horizon, I observed a nearly full moon and at times looked at it with my binoculars. Soon I dozed off. Awakening in the early morning around 3 AM, the moon was setting and I watched the winter sky, especially the Orion constellation. Next thing I knew it was daylight and I was awakening from a glorious night’s sleep. Pretty simple stuff.
At home, I am not a big breakfast eater, but on the trail it is my favorite meal. Sleeping under the stars means there is little to do when packing up camp, so a leisurely breakfast is always in order, weather permitting. Umm, umm good!
PETROGLYPHS
Vandalism. Here is an example of vandalism, and why I am trying to hide this Secret Place. Although with a little research you can find it. But it is not easy to get to. The petroglyphs that have been damaged in this picture are over 5,000 years old. Scientists can determine the age based on the amount of “desert varnish” that covers them.
The petroglyphs below have remained undamaged for centuries.
I did find water in the spring and was able to complete the loop. Here is my reflection.
Sand Dunes. Many people think of vast mileage of sand when they think of deserts. And sometimes it in abundance. But I walked on very little sand. However in the distance is a dry lake and the wind has created a haze from the blowing sand. Probably hard to see, there are 3 large dust devils several hundred feet tall. But it is relatively calm where I am standing.
Desert Pavement. Desert pavement is the surface that is covered with packed rather rounded rocks. It is so hard that you can drive a vehicle across it at high speeds. Also, allows one to walk quickly!
Desert Pavement
More Desert Pavement.
GEAR FAILURE
I had two minor failures.
The first was a pinhole in my Foster’s can. The can does double duty as my cook pot and drinking cup. My stove, cup and utensils only weigh a total of around 4 ounces. A small pinhole developed right at the middle fold. I have “babied” this can and it has been on many, many trips as you can see from the discoloring. To be honest, I am tired of arranging my pack to put it in a spot where it will not get crushed. So I will probably switch to a titanium pot system. I would much rather put the pot where it makes sense packing-wise and stop worrying about crushing it.
When I was putting away my quilt, I saw some feathers floating in the air. On closer inspection I noticed this tear at the top of the foot box. Since I always put the quilt in the stuff sack, and never have the top of the foot box on the ground, I first thought it might just be material fatigue, but I probably punctured it with a finger nail. The material is made from very thin CubenTech cloth. CubenTech is used to make sails for the America’ Cup racing yachts, light and strong for that application, but somewhat fragile in the thickness for my quilt. The quilt only weighs 12 ounces and is warm to just below freezing.
I also noticed that one of cord loops is pulling away from the cuben. These are the perils of truly UL equipment.
GEAR
The McHale Bump pack thoroughly exceeded my expectations. Handles 35 lbs with ease, and the internal aluminum stays inside the pack are used as the frame, keeping the pack close to my center of gravity. This was an expense that was well worth the investment. The only difficulty through the entire purchase process was figuring out what material to make it from. Dan McHale wanted to make it from CubenTech fabric. I am leery of Cuben for the long term (as you can see in the pictures of my quilt above, as I expect this pack to last for at least a couple decades, and no one has used cuben for that long in a pack to report on its durability. The Cuben that Dan uses is a hybrid with a polyester laminate and he has tested it thoroughly. So I opted for Dyneema X Grid. The fabric Dan uses has the Dyneema threads spaced at 3/16” of an inch, versus the ¼” most of the UL manufacturers use. So his has about 25% more Dyneema thread in it. The pack has a full Dyneema bottom and the back of the straps is also made from full Dyneema. Dyneema is the strongest material known, and has replaced Aramid as the preferred material used to make military bullet-proof vests. The front of the pack has a mesh panel to help with sweat.
Specs on the pack
- Main Bag Volume (excludes any accessories) ~ 2,000 cu in or 33 L.
- Main Bag Volume (including the 11” roll top) ~ 3,000 cu in or 49 L.
- The stays and internal pad are removable. The padded double buckle hip belt is removable.
Options included
- Top Lid
- Water Bottle Pockets (easily hold 2 Liter water bottle); 2 each
- Hip Belt Pockets; 2 each
- Shoulder Strap Pocket; 1 each
Weights
- Stripped down without Stays, Pad, or hip belt = 25.15 oz (1lb 9.15 oz)
- Note: stripped down you can add a simple web belt.
- All Options Included = 51.92 oz (3lb 4.92 oz)
Gear Summary
